When we talk about waste, we're referring to by-products or secondary materials from variousindustries or manufacturing processes – they are not trash. It's crucial torecognise that waste isn't synonymous with unusability (waste only becomeswaste when we decide to throw it away). For instance, a significant amount offood is wasted globally due to superficial reasons like appearance (lovinglyreferred to as “wonky” fruit and vegetables) or demand fluctuations,contributing to substantial greenhouse gas emissions. According to TurnerWyatt, CEO and Co-Founder of the Upcycled Food Association, cutting food wasteis the single most effective thing people can do to address climate change. Upcyclingenables us to transform these discarded resources into nutrient-rich materialsbrimming with unique phytocompounds for personal care.

A prevalent misconception is that upcycled ingredients should be cheaper because they originate from waste. However, this oversimplification overlooks the extensive journey these materials undergo. Upcycled feedstocks still require procurement, packaging, transportation, and processing into cosmetic raw materials—much like primary sources. The inherent value of upcycled ingredient feedstocks underscores their significance as precious plant-based resources, not cast-offs lacking worth.

Moreover, while many cosmetic ingredients stem from upcycled sources, this isn't always prominently advertised due to supply chain complexities or historical practices that didn't prioritise origin transparency. The difference now is a push towards more transparent supply chains reflecting sustainability values.

Some express concerns that upcycled ingredients compromise beauty product quality and efficacy. However, this assertion is unfounded. In fact, the compounds which are unwanted or unnecessary in other industries are often desirable in cosmetic applications due to their bioactivity. Upcycled ingredients undergo rigorous testing and quality control to meet stringent safety and efficacy standards, often rivaling or surpassing traditional counterparts due to sustainable production practices.

Looking back at the history of personal care, the concept of upcycling is not a recent phenomenon. Many raw materials commonly used in cosmetics, such as lanolin, glycerine, and various seed oils, are actually by-products from other industries. Overcoming logistical challenges is not insurmountable; rather, it requires personal care ingredient manufacturers to forge strong partnerships with local waste producers.

Working with upcycled supply chains is not more difficult, but rather a different approach. Instead of adhering to the traditional linear economy model of take-make-dispose, ingredient manufacturers can adopt a reverse approach. They can identify what materials are being discarded in their communities and explore ways to repurpose these materials into innovative cosmetic ingredients. This shift fosters creativity and innovation while reducing reliance on virgin resources.

The challenge with South Africa is that although we have a plethora of potential by-products, there aren’t many local options in terms of cosmetic grade upcycled raw ingredients. The scope for researching and developing cutting-edge cosmetic ingredients from waste such as discarded peel, pips, pith, leaves, stems, husks, shells, kernels, bark, rind, misshapen or so-called ugly fruit and vegetables, and more is enormous but can be costly which means innovative indie beauty brands like ENOUGH. often need to look to international raw material suppliers.

While it's true that upcycling has gained significant traction in recent years, evidenced by the proliferation of new materials proudly touting their upcycled origins, we must recognise that sustainability is not a fleeting trend but an imperative, particularly given the real-time impact of climate issues. Upcycling is a cornerstone of the circular economy—a sustainable business model that prioritises waste prevention, reduction, reuse, and the extension of product lifecycles across the supply chain.

To achieve true circular beauty, businesses must scrutinise every aspect of a product's creation and lifecycle, from the selection of ingredients to the disposal of packaging. As upcycling promotes transparency within supply chains, it becomes increasingly challenging to obscure practices with greenwashing tactics.